by Lisa Kerrigan
As the air chills, the wind howls, the rain pelts down, we seek out warm hearths, cosy corners, hot water bottles, eiderdowns, wooly sweaters and … Soup! Yes, soup. That wonderful flavorsome, wholesome, lovesome meal in a bowl that warms us right through to our very fingertips.
Well, toss out the can, and the packet of cup-a-soup, because a warming brew of the really good stuff lies just a few veggie scraps away.
Firstly make some stock. There are several ways of doing this, depending on your mood at the time and of course your energy levels. You can buy ready-made stock from your local supermarket (some brands are not too bad, but I tend to find them a little on the salty side); your local deli usually has supplies of freshly made stock, or stock-balls, for sale; or, preferably, you can quite easily make it at home.
For a nice rich beef stock, ask your butcher for some beef bones; keep the carcass of last night’s roast chicken if it’s chicken stock you want; or procure a fish head or two from your fishmonger for fish stock. Put your chosen base into a large pot, cover well with water and a splash of red or white wine, and then add all the veggies, herbs and peels you can find: the more the better. Potatoes, garlic cloves unpeeled; cut onions unpeeled; celery leaves; carrot chunks; sprigs of parsley, basil, thyme, rosemary, sage; leeks; mushroom stalks; a handful of peppercorns and a good pinch of sea salt. Bring this delightful array to the boil. When it begins to boil reduce heat to a simmer and go away and read the paper for a couple of hours.
By the time your return the stock should have considerably reduced and taken on a lovely rich scent. Remove it from the heat, strain the liquid into another pot and let it sit until cold. If you like you can scoop off the fat that settles at the top. There you have it. The basis for magic homemade soup. At this point all you have to do is add your bulk; sautéed prawns and noodles; shredded chicken and shallots; chicken or fish dumplings (simply made by throwing the flesh into the blender and adding some herb and spice and then rolling into small balls – poached in your stock, these are divine); chunky vegetables; tortellini – the list is endless. If you wish to be uncomplicated – dish the stock into a mug and just savour it slowly on its own. You will warm your very cockles!