A few weeks ago we discovered how to master a first class soup: i.e. master first a first class stock. Today we will put our beautifully aromatic stock (which having made up we have stored in the freezer!!) to use in another wonderfully simple dish, and that is Risotto. To make a fabulous risotto, all you need is a good base and a few additional ingredients, the versatility of which is astounding. In fact, the simpler the risotto, the better it tastes, and that makes it even easier.
Rice is to the Northern Italians what pasta is to the south, and the very manner in which it is cooked, to produce that perfect state of creaminess, slowly, in liquid, is totally diverse from the sticky, fluffy or flaky way rice is served in other countries. In Italy rice is never served to accompany a meat dish – rather the meat is always in the dish itself. One exception to this (and isn’t there always one!) is risotto milanese which is sometimes served to accompany ossi buchi (I haven’t spelled it incorrectly – it is the plural of osso buco!). Risotto is also rarely served as a main course, but rather as a primo (entrée) and you will discover if you try, that a small dish of an exquisite risotto ai funghi porcini, or a risotto ai tartufi, or a risotto alla champagne, is the perfect starter to a long evening’s wining and dining.
Once you have mastered the art of cooking the rice, you can create any number of different dishes. Remember firstly to use the correct rice – arborio. There are different grades of arborio rice – the best being the Ferron riso vialone nano (the ONLY rice to use according to the most elite of chefs). You will find arborio rice in the supermarket but it does sometimes tend to go a bit sticky if overdone, something that won’t happen with Ferron. Specialized risotto rice is found in fine food stores and well worth the extra dollar or two.
Getting down to business, stir –fry your flavors (I always start with spring onions and a touch of garlic) in a little oil or butter (in the North butter is always used, but I prefer oil) until soft. Add your soaked porcini mushrooms or your squid ink (both available in good delicatessens) or your seafood or your chicken or your beef marrow, or any other animal or vegetable you like. Toss them around in the pan and add your rice (about 3 – 5 oz per person). Stir until the rice is well tossed and at this point I like to add a hearty splash of white wine or champagne. Once cooked off, toss in a handful of your favorite chopped herb and then begin to add your stock, which you have brought to simmering point in another pan. Add a cupful at a time and keep your eye on the risotto stirring occasionally. As the stock absorbs keep adding more. It usually takes about 20-30 minutes and towards the end stir constantly to avoid stickiness. When the mixture is beautifully creamy and the rice only slightly resistant to the bite, remove the risotto from the stove and add a knob of butter and a handful of grated Parmesan (a good quality parmesan is essential or your hard work will be ruined!). A Tavola, Amici!